Okay, the shirt went horribly awry. I ended up having to cut it off, after trying it on. So I finished a hat instead, and converted the fabric and embroidery into napkins. At least those are pretty and I don't have to worry if they fit.
On a positive note...I tried out the "Elizabethan Men's Wardrobe" pattern from Margot Anderson. The shirt turned out beautifully. I just need to cut down the sleeves a few inches and attach a new set of cuffs. It looks absolutely glorious in a dark rusty orange. And, there's enough left over material for lining either a cloak or a set of moss-green velvet paned sleeves.